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  • Why do you have to destroy instead of protect? Get away with good and bad in Babadag Ghiocei Reserve

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    If it's still Saturday, and the mild February sun brings us even 12-13 degrees, I thought I'd give you a tip for a one-day getaway in Dobrogea. What you're about to read happened at the end of last week, but I'm sure nothing has changed for the better until today.

    The Babadag snowdrop is the most sought-after symbol of spring

    Located in the area of ​​the Babadag Plateau, in the city of Babadag, Tulcea county, the "Babadag-Codru" Forest is known as one of the most representative protected areas in the country. And here is also the largest reserve of Dobrogean snowdrops. According to the Babadag Tourist Information Center, the perimeter conquered by the snowmen lies between the Babadag Plateau, Cerna and Măcin. The Babadag site is included in the Natura 2000 list, which brings together protected natural areas of national and European importance.

    The Dobrogean snowshoe is found only in the Măcin - Isaccea - Teliţa - Babadag - Enisala region and is listed on the European Red List of endangered species. They are the only snowdrops that also have a scent, and this year, due to the atypical winter, they have been blooming since the end of January.

    The Dobrogean snowman

    The description above urges you to take a short hike on the plateau roads of Babadag to enjoy the view offered by the harbingers of spring. Said and done! After a journey of about an hour, we arrived at the barriers installed by the Babadag Forest Bypass.

    Traffic is prohibited, except for those who drive off-road vehicles

    If you are looking for signs to the Ghiocei Reservation, I inform you that you will not find such a thing. As a guide, you can leave your car in the parking lot located a few hundred meters before the Doi Iepurași Restaurant or even in the restaurant's free parking lot.

    And from here, on the side of the road, be careful because there is no sidewalk, towards the barriers installed by the Forest Bypass.

    One of the barriers installed by Ocolul Silvic

    And now it depends on how equipped you are because you have the possibility to roam the forest on the paths in search of snowdrops or you can use the forest road if you want it to be easier. Upon entering the Reserve, the first indicator you will discover is the one announcing that road traffic is prohibited.

    The Babadag Reservation, the Traffic Prohibited sign

    A ban that, unfortunately, does not apply to Tupei locals with off-road vehicles and who, in exchange for tens of lei, pick up tourists and take them by car through the forest.

    With the all-terrain vehicle right on the road with the sign prohibiting traffic

    If you manage to overcome these negative aspects and delve into the forest, you begin to discover thousands of harbingers of spring trying to fight their way to the sun's rays.

    Snowdrops in the Babadag Reserve

    While we were trying to capture the best shots, our attention was caught by the conversation between two local couples a few meters away. The two were not only picking snowdrops from the reserve, but also pulling them out with their bulbs to plant in the yard. “We come here every year and get snowdrops from here,” they explained when I asked them why they were picking the flowers and couldn’t just enjoy the scenery and nature. The two moved away from us and shied away when they saw that we had a camera. They had a bucket full of snowdrops with bulbs.

    Snowball collectors

    And unfortunately, that's when I noticed that, in fact, most of them were leaving the forest with their arms full of snowdrops. Parents explaining to their children how to break the snowshoes, and even urging them to take pictures, probably to upload them to social media. I don't want to be more Catholic than the Pope, but I wonder how we got to this state of mind that it has become like a pleasure to destroy everything that is beautiful in nature.

    In this way, I remind the police and those from the Babadag Forestry that there are laws that protect Nature Reserves and the species on them from extinction. But, just as I tell myself that, most likely, no one will be penalized! As you enter the town of Babadag, there are dozens of locals on the side of the street selling thousands of snowdrops picked from the reserve and not bothered by any lawmen.

    A portion of roe, a cutlet of Delta carp and a meeting with friends

    The two hours spent in nature had taken their toll so we continued our day trip to a place where we knew we could eat fresh fish, cooked with salt on a wood-burning stove. We arrived in the village of Sarichioi, in the fishing port, where Gabriel managed to recreate an old place from Vama Veche.

    Tavern in the Port of Sarichioi

    On a pontoon built on beams, a terrace with a few tables and a wood-burning stove, the small cherhana had no shortage of customers. Even the owner seemed surprised by the large number of tourists who crossed his threshold in February, especially since the area has barely thawed! My advice is to bring thick jackets because there are no tables inside and if the sun starts to set you will be shivering badly. 

    Menu and hours of operation

    As four people, we ordered carp roe, a carp and half a carp, freshly caught right in the Danube Delta. In fact, it's a house rule that the owner shows you the fish he has available, and you actually choose the one you want him to cook for you. Preparing the fish takes about 30-40 minutes, so you always have time to make a short visit to the small fishing port of Sarichioi. And then come the platters!

    What you saw in the photos cost 300 lei, money that I paid in cash.

    Adrian Gorpin

    I have been working in the media for more than 20 years. I started at TV Neptun, and for 18 years I worked at Pro TV. Every year, I try to see what good things have been done on the coast, what needs to be corrected and if there are models that we can follow. Funkytravel.ro is a digital "book" where you will discover analyzes about tourism, interviews with people who work in this industry, accommodation tips, but also some of the adventures we have experienced