The story you will read below will hopefully give you a glimpse into the entire socio-cultural landscape of South Africa. In a single day, in fact, in just a few hours, we went from suffering and misery, to urban regeneration through culture, a carnival in the center of the metropolis of Cape Town, and a refreshing stop at a rooftop pool located on the 14th floor of a hotel.
Langa, the neighborhood without any whites
We realized that Langa, which translates to Sun, continues to have the reputation of being the most dangerous neighborhood in Cape Town when our ride was refused by three Uber drivers. Don't think we're fans of dangerous experiences where we would put our lives at risk, but the visit we had scheduled was organized by the Cultural Center. And Don, the group's guide, is one of the residents of the Langa neighborhood.
Founded in the 1920s, Langa is a neighborhood located near Cape Town and was created as a settlement for black people during the era of racial segregation. Although not officially recognized, Langa was actually a labor camp.
Living conditions in Langa were extremely poor, and the traces can still be seen in certain areas. Although the tour starts from the modern building of the Cultural Center (Guga S'thebe), it doesn't take long and the poverty, still present, hits you. The neighborhood is divided into three distinct areas: the extremely poor, middle class and "Beverly Hills".
In the slum or favela area, houses built of poor materials, sometimes made of tin, cardboard and wood are overcrowded and often lack adequate sanitary facilities. If during segregation, residents had limited or no access to running water, sewage and other basic services, and the roads were dirt, now they have asphalt and infrastructure. Unfortunately, the unsanitary barracks still house dozens of souls who share a more spacious room as a living room, and the bedrooms are smaller than a Regie dorm room. The sanitary group is shared and is located outside, at the entrance to the premises.
Leaving aside the poverty and stepping through the middle class area, Don led us to "Beverly Hills".
A small neighborhood with well maintained houses, lush vegetation and people enjoying the day off.
Although Don told us at the start of the tour that he would be extremely open, he politely sidestepped any questions about crime in Langa. Honestly, we didn't feel like we were in danger, but we had a local as a companion. And to get to the first intertitle, Don also admitted that there is not a single white African living in Langa.
Promoting traditions and art can transform the community
Over the years, the Langa community has developed a strong cultural identity, with music, dance and art reflecting both its tumultuous history and hopes for the future. The vibrant community with a range of social and cultural initiatives to support its residents is starting to gain ground. Street art finds its place in various corners, and galleries full of paintings and sculptures have sprung up among the shops opened in containers.
Just like the small market of local souvenirs, but also the workshops of the craftsmen in the Cultural Center can be solutions for urban regeneration.
The photo above captures the music school funded by Grammy-winning artist Skirllex, and he's not the only one to draw attention to this community.
50 Cent – The American rapper filmed the music video for his song “In Da Club” in Langa in 2003. This song became a hit and brought major attention to the Langa neighborhood and South Africa in general.
Will Smith – the American actor and rapper visited Langa to film parts of his music video for the song “Switch”.
Denzel Washington – the neighborhood was the filming location for Safe House
PONT- use alternative transport to Langa (Uber, Bolt)
PONT – organizes the tour with the employees of the Cultural Center – Guga S'thebe (ZAR 400/person) The money stays in the community.
BRIDGE - come with cash. I was able to pay by card in one place.
TIP – don't forget to put an antibacterial gel in your backpack.
Kaapse Klops, the traditional carnival on the second day of the new year
The day ended in the center of the Cape Town metropolis. Thousands of people dressed in bright uniforms, face paint and wearing hats or parasols marched through the streets of the city at the Kaapse Klops carnival. Singing 'ghoema' with trumpets and drums, the parade participants have extravagant dance moves.
Access to the event is free.
BRIDGE – Minstrel troupes parade down Hanover Street in District 6 and Rose Street in Bo-Kaap
BRIDGE – the area is restricted to cars
BRIDGE - watch out for pickpockets, even the authorities in Cape Town say so
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